When I think German beer, I think German bratwurst…and then I think sauerkraut and mustard. I’ve never been completely satisfied with store-bought mustard, even the fancy stuff, and so have perfected my own recipe over the last few years. The result is in-your-face, with a fantastic spicy kick from the mustard seeds. I find it interesting that it comes across as horseradish-like, without a single bit of horseradish root.

The recipe is heavily based on a version from The Spruce Eats, but subbing in all brown mustard seed instead of a mix of brown and yellow. I took additional inspiration in the spicing from a recipe at Serious Eats. On the one hand, it’s a fair bit of ingredients; on the other hand, the spices give a complexity that straight-up mustard seeds would not give. I used to add the spices to the simmered liquid ingredients, but for my latest batch I just put them in with the mustard seed and mustard powder. I think I like this revision a bit better, because the aromatics from the spices don’t boil off as much.

The recipe yields around a pint of processed mustard; the mustard seeds swell a surprising amount! The mustard keeps very well in the fridge.

Spicy Brown Mustard

Add to bowl:

• 1/4 cup + 3 tbs brown mustard seeds
• 1/4 cup dry mustard powder
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
• 1/4 teaspoon dried tarragon
• 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Boil for 10 minutes:

• 1/2 cup water
• 1 1/2 cups cider vinegar
• 1 small onion, coarsely chopped
• 2 tablespoons firmly packed brown sugar
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed

Pour the hot liquid over the mustard seeds and mustard powder; stir, cover, and let this mixture sit for 24 hours. It will swell and increase in volume a fair bit. Next, blend the mixture to preferred consistency (I use a stick blender), put it in jars, and refrigerate. Let the mustard sit for at least two days before using (three is better); the mustard has an initial unpleasant bitterness that disappears pretty quickly.